Gabala

What you actually see

Forest, orchards and mountains, which is not what anyone expects of Azerbaijan after the Caspian and the oil towers. The Tufandag ropeway climbs out of the town in stages and gives you the range properly. Nohur Lake below it is the postcard: still water, bare trees standing in it, mountains behind.

Older than it looks

Gabala was a capital of Caucasian Albania, the ancient kingdom that occupied this region long before the modern borders, and the archaeological site sits outside the modern town. There is not a great deal standing, and the honest reason to come is the landscape rather than the ruins.

Pairing it

Almost every trip here runs Baku first, then inland. Sheki, with its glass-mosaic khan's palace, is further along the same road and is the natural addition if you have the extra day.

How long to give it

Two nights. One is enough to see it and not enough to justify the drive.

When to go

Average daytime high, night-time low and rain days for Gabala, from five years of recorded observations rather than a forecast or a brochure.

Comfortable months: Jul to Sep.